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2006 Gigou Jasnieres Cuvee Clos St. Jacques

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Producer Note: Joel Gigou continues to be the iconic producer of Jasnières. This miniscule appellation is 25 miles north of Tours in the Coteaux du Loir (itself an appellation barely larger, where Gigou also has holdings). The whites are a product of that magical Loire symbiosis between Chenin Blanc and tufa. Arguably, the expression here is the most singular and extreme in all the Loire region. Gigou is a conscious archaist. One look at the ancient photograph on his labels of peasants tilling the vineyards will confirm that. But the wines will hold their own against all that modern wine-wizardry can throw forth. They have that thrilling fusion of fruit and mineral which only the greatest Rieslings, white burgundies and Savennières can offer, surmounted by an ethereal floral perfume that brings tears to the eye. Son Ludovic has been groomed to take over the estate, and he has proved to be as attuned as his father to the qualities that are Jasnières’ hallmark. A big hit with David Schildknecht. 


Wine Note: Always the flagship of the estate, the old vines of Clos St. Jacques give rise to greater vinosity and texture without sacrificing in any way the signature ethereal scent of Jasnières nor its searing minerality. It bears mentioning that Gigou patiently ages his wines in small old casks in his perfect cellar until he deems them ready for release. This is very much the exception to the rule in the area, but the resultant benefits are easy to appreciate. Until very recently, these barrels were exclusively made of traditional chestnut, but, starting in 2006, oak has begun to play a role in the aging as well, with a gain in finesse. 

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